Setting
At the moment we are driving from Khorugh to Dushanbe in Tajikistan. The road follows the Panj River as it meanders between numerous mountains. On one side of the river is Afghanistan and on the other is Tajikistan. At times the river narrows as it flits through tight canons and you come so tantalisingly close to the people and dwellings of Afghanistan. As this is a porous border there are Tajik soldiers manning several check points along the road but also keeping ‘an eye’ on any unwanted activity from ‘across the river.’
Action
Last night, as darkness descended, a bright beam of torchlight illuminated the slip-road where we were camped. As the light grew in intensity we could make out four figures silhouetted in the murky darkness behind it. As they neared, and as my eyes adjusted to the light, we could see that there were four army soldiers approaching. Each one was in camouflage uniform and each one clutching an AK47.
We said hello and smiled sweetly and overtly. We gestured that we were sleeping in the car and asked if that was ok. One of the men then spoke on his walkie talkie (I presume to his commander), while we made some attempt at conversation with the other three soldiers. After the phone call was finished it became clear that we could stay but we were instructed to turn our camp lights off. So with handshakes all round off they trotted down the other side; AK47s swinging by their sides.
For heavens sake do not take a wrong turning . A once in a lifetime time experience.