Taking the long way home from Japan to Frome, UK

Category: recap (Page 1 of 3)

Let England Shake

In my last blog entry (dated 13th December) I was luxuriating in the fact that we were sat on a sofa in front of a fire gazing out of a window at the mountains of southern Greece. The novelty of having rooms, a hot shower, a kitchen, a flushing loo, sofas to sprawl on, a fireplace….was great! Our days were mostly spent slowly meandering into the local village – where we would eat delicious food, drink cappuccinos and down cold pints of Mythos with the Mediterranean Sea as our vista. In the evenings we would cook, drink and then collapse into an electric-blanket warmed bed – lying in until late in the morning.

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Arriving at the house in Greece

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Shoe Shine Scam

It’s dark and we’re walking back to the hotel. A man walks past and we notice that a small wooden brush falls onto the road behind him. We both don’t hesitate to call out after him about his dropped brush. Captain picks up the brush and hands it to the man who thanks us. I love these simple small acts of unheroic kindness – a fleeting moment when someone instinctively helps out a stranger. (On the tube in Tokyo I would go out of my way to try and find someone older than me to offer my seat to!) 

He offers us a shoe shine – which we presume is a gesture of gratitude. We both say no thanks but he crouches on the floor with the shoe shine block in front of him and insists. We politely refuse again but, so as not to appear rude, Captain offers up a shoe. He haphazardly brushes and gives it a quick greasing. It’s a quick ineffective shoe polish. I can remember thinking how sweet that we helped him and, in return, he’s showing us his thanks in the only way he can. “One good turn deserves another.”

He offers to clean mine. I refuse several times as my shoes are made from mesh and polishing would be ineffectual. He insists nonetheless and so, giggling like a child, I offer my foot. It’s then when he asks us about children (as most people we have met on our travels do) and we return the question. He says he has five but the youngest has trouble with her eyes so he’s just been to the hospital. He talks about the need to work hard to make money to pay for the vast hospital bills. I suspect most of you, by now, would have thought something’s up. We didn’t! I can even remember thinking that someone at his age having a child increases the likelihood of disabilities. Poor guy shining shoes for a pittance to support his family.

Just as he is finishing he mentions that if we have a couple of Lira he would really appreciate it. I feel in my coat pocket where I keep my loose change and pull out about 5 Lira. I cup the change in my hand. Now this is when the atmosphere suddenly changes. With an altered demeanour he demands 18L. He points at both of us, and in an aggresive raised voice, repeats his demand stating that two sets of shoes cost 9L each and we must pay him. I reluctantly pull out a 20L note and hand it to him. We walk off. Yes we were annoyed at ourselves for paying him 20L. Yes we should have just carried on after the initial “You dropped your brush” moment. Yes we felt foolish and silly…… but we walked off, arm in arm, laughing at our own naivety.

It was only back at the hotel that Captain wondered if the man had dropped the brush on purpose as a way to initiate the scam? No way I replied – seriously? Captain did a google search – ‘Istanbul shoe shine scam.’  Let’s just say there was no shortage of results that came up. Pages and pages of shoe shiner scams and other more elaborate scams – even a YouTube video. OMG! The little *#^* – he dropped the brush on purpose!

Now, it’s one thing ripping an unsuspected tourist off by charging too much but it’s quite another preying on an act of kindness to initiate a scam. From feeling rather foolish and silly I now feel angry and used.

I suppose the act of tricking someone, like a magic show, plays on pulling the wool over their eyes. A good trick relies on confusing the five senses; while the best ones expertly tease our cerebral functions. This was no magic trick; this was a dirty rotten scam that punched right at the heart. It crossed the line by taking an act of kindness and subverting and twisting it into a gnarled ugly knot. 

Old man if we see you, or your ilk, again….. that brush lying on the road is going flying.

Winter Wonderland

Having taken what we thought was a short detour around some road works we, instead, ended up on a very long detour in the mountains. (It has to be said that in Georgia and Turkey road diversion signs are non-existent and we got lost many times – as did the Satnav!)

But with the recent snow fall, this little detour proved to be absolutely stunning! The sun shone and the candy floss puffs of snow glistened against the clear blue sky. A veritable winter wonderland indeed.

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Beauty is in the Detail

One of the best things about this trip is that there is a nice balance between routine and spontaneity. I love routine and with a trip like this there’s lots of routines to get your teeth stuck into. Living in such a small space means you have to be organised and you naturally fall into a pattern of chores that need doing. From opening the curtains each morning to setting up the tea making paraphernalia. From checking the drawers are locked to closing the sun roof cover. From locking the car each night to lying in bed watching something on the computer.

But unlike being at home and going to work where, no doubt, everyone has their own set of routines and chores: we are constantly on the move. So each day is different. Each day we have different vistas and different experiences. And it is here where the beauty of travelling lies. Each day is filled with hundreds of small un-noteworthy details that don’t amount to much. But combined, these small strokes build up to create one large painting. And it’s in these small details, that happen in the gaps between each routine, where the real beauty lies.

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The Happy Ending Story

(This should be read after A Story with a Happy Ending – a somewhat unflattering portrait of Russia.)

On our final night, probably ever, in Russia we ended up camping close to the Georgian border in the forecourt of a cafe/petrol station (avid fans will recall my blog post ‘Service Without a Smile‘ and know how these work). It was really cold outside so, having eaten in the cafe, we smuggled in a bottle of wine and some beer to drink in the warmth. We were half way through a rather dull game of Scrabble (yes – Captain was winning) when the friendly security guard approached for a chat and to give us some sweets.

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A Story with a Happy Ending

(This should be read before The Happy Ending Story)

I’m starting off with two bits of good news: firstly, we found a bottle of port and some blue cheese in a supermarket in Atyrau! Secondly, as avid readers of the blog, you will no doubt already know that Brian was reunited with us – so I won’t bore you with the details of that. So with Brian back on board, the port safely stored away and the cheese stinking the car out we headed to the border with Russia. We only had a four day transit visa with which to travel through Russia and we had lost a day of that waiting for DHL to cough Brian up; so it was a case of ‘foot to the floor.’

Fun driving conditions

Fun driving conditions

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The Life of Brian (Part Two of Two)

As you’ll recall from Part One, rather than attempt to take Brian into Uzbekistan, we packed him on his merry way to Atyrau, a small city in the far western part of Kazakhstan that we would be driving through on our way to Russia. It cost us $150 and was worth every cent just for the piece of mind.

So, with Brian safely on the hands of DHL, we rocked up early to the Tajikistan/Uzbekistan border the next morning without a care in the world. As we left the Tajikistan side and approached the Uzbekistan side of the border the gun toting guards became more frequent and the barbed wire sharper. And when I saw the huge van that X-rays cars I knew we had done the right thing posting Brian. Honestly, if we had had Brian in the car, I would have had a nervous breakdown. As I kept saying to Captain – Uzbekistan is: fundamentally a police state; in a period of political turmoil with the recent death of its long standing President and is a country with one of the worst human rights record in the world ……. what the hell were we even thinking considering smuggling a drone in?

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The Life of Brian (Part One of Two)

It is against the law for any foreigner to take a drone into Uzbekistan so we always knew that Brian (our drone) was going to be problematic! Being optimistic people we decided that we’d solve the problem ‘nearer the time.’ And being also procrastinators (well mostly Captain) we found ourselves with only two days until our visa started to ‘solve the problem.’

We had two options:

  1. dismantle Brain and hide the components around the car
  2. leave him in his box, in his place in the car, and if we got caught, play the stupid dumb tourist.

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The Hunted

We drove through a beautiful wide valley filled with fruit trees; farmers ploughing fields and small road-side stalls of apples, onions, melons and squash. The road meandered for a few miles following a dry river bed hemmed in by gentle sloping hills on either side. We eventually came across a track that crossed the river bed and stopped in a small triangular parcel of land where two hills converged.

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