Taking the long way home from Japan to Frome, UK

Category: mongolia (Page 1 of 3)

Candied Concrete Constructions

I doubt this is the usual overlander/traveller blog topic! Nevertheless, as one travels through the countries that we have on Fromeward Bound there’s no doubting the influence that concrete has in shaping the region.

It should be noted that I’m a big fan of concrete; both as a building material and also aesthetically. I particularly love 1960s brutalism; as a child I would visit my uncle who lived in the Barbican and marvel at this unapologetic beast of a structure. (I’m no snob though, as I’m equally enamoured by car parks!) I love the rawness of the material, the colour palette, the different textures; it’s uncompromisingly scale and it’s innate strength. I’ve mixed concrete only once before when Captain and I laid some foundations for an extension. It’s pretty mind boggling that from four simple ingredients of sand, cement, aggregate and water one can create a material so hard and strong it can withstand a nuclear bomb.

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Surprise, Surprise

Nine months passed between deciding that Fromeward Bound was going to happen and finally leaving Tokyo. During that time I did a huge amount of researching and planning – reading blogs and forums, pouring over maps, etc. – and created quite a clear idea in my head of how I thought things would play out.

Despite all that ‘deep’ thinking, some things have turned out a bit differently…..

Our very first night on the road

Our very first night on the road

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Goodnight and Sweet Dreams

“The Night is Dark and Full of Terrors” – Melissandra – Game of Thrones

A heinous man, not four feet tall, approaches the car. His long pointed noise, crooked and bent, sniffs the cool night air like a hungry wolf. Greasy long blond hair lies in knotted strands down his hunched back. Black beady eyes peer through the open window and settle menacingly on my sleeping pale flesh. Suddenly he thrusts his hand through the open car window and grabs me: I wake with a start. I scream but no sound emerges from my mouth. I shout for Captain but no sound emerges from my mouth. Even my fast heaving breath makes not a ripple in the still night air. There is nothing but silence…..

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“And your top three highlights are…..”

Now that we have been travelling for nearly three months we thought we’d both have a think about each of our three highlights so far. We didn’t confer on these and left the brief open. Interesting, I think, that most of these aren’t ‘tourist attractions’ or actual places we have visited but more a general sense of living so close to nature.

By the way being with me was Captain’s #4 😉

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Hitchhikers of the World Unite and Take Over

When I was younger I used to hitchhike. At the age of 17 my friend Havana and I spent 10 days hitching from London to Scotland and back again. I’ve hitched from England to the South of France, all over Malta, Holland, Central London and would frequently hitch from my parent’s house in Shaftesbury up to Bath. I loved the randomness of who would pick you up and the stories they would tell. Long distance lorry drivers were particularly good fun as they obviously enjoyed having people to talk with. In all those times I never felt in danger or threatened in anyway whatsoever. It always seemed to me a really great way to travel around….it’s such a shame that, at least in England, it’s a dying art.

Though not in Mongolia and Kazakhstan 🙂

It’s really common to hitch a ride both in the countryside and in the cities. People stand by the side of the road and, rather than a thumbs up, you raise your arm to hip height and (optional) wiggle your hand a tad. If a car wants to pick you up they stop, you tell them where you’re going and, if it’s in the the same direction, they pick you up. The slight difference is that usually a small price is paid for the ride. You might think only people in need of money would pick hitchers up but you regularly see really expensive looking cars drawing up who certainly don’t look like they need some extra cash.

On the way into Almaty on Sunday evening all walks of life were lining the busy road: old, young, families, friends, singletons, smartly dressed folk and not quite so – all catching a ride into town. Another thing to note is that you often see single girls hitching and getting into cars with a single man. So it seems to be a really safe, efficient and economical way to travel around – not least because there’s one less car choking up the roads.

So, in the words of Morrissey…….”unite and take over.”

Visitors from Outer Mongolia

Our last camp spot in Mongolia was 10km from the Russian border. We chose a hidden spot behind a small hill off the main road. It was beautiful!

Within half an hour, from yonder, came three figures and a horse. As they neared you could tell that they were all children. They were dressed for winter, complete with woolly hats, even though it was a hot sunny day. Their clothes were old and torn but someone had wrapped them up in multiple layers to keep them warm. The youngest one wore a cool fake fur coat not dissimilar to my Micky Mouse fake fur 😉

We said hello and established where they had come from. I got the Polaroid out to take a photo after miming if that was ok. They quickly assembled into a group pose by the horse and smiled at the camera. Click. Their eyes widened as the print emerged from the camera. We waited a few seconds for the picture to begin to develop and then I took two more, in quick succession, so they all could have a photo each. With each photograph their smiles grew.

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