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Taking the long way home from Japan to Frome, UK

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Photos

Hiding from the snow
Waking up to an icy car
Packed housing Istanbul

You can’t beat a good touristy boat trip! Ortaköy Camii, Istanbul
These chaps were out doing their homework – find English speakers and ask them about their experiences in Turkey. Very nice guys! Istanbul

Basilica Cistern – built by the Romans to store 80000 cubic metres of water Istanbul
Inside Hagia Sofia Museum Istanbul

Clare loved these old wooden buildings. Mostly they were in a bad state, like this one Istanbul
Istanbul
Looking out across the Black Sea the morning after a massive storm.

The rain stopped for a few hours and we finally got to see the coastline – just lovely!
Boats mill around in the bay formed by the peninsular of Sinop


Clare pretending to be excited!

Batumi
Men fishing, Batumi
Batumi streets

Batumi skyline
Batumi port
Our first sighting of both the Black Sea and Batumi. After months and months of land-locked living it felt good to see the sea!

Photoshoot for this year’s ‘Kays’ catalogue
An early morning visitor whilst camping
Tbilisi skyline

Tbilisi old town
We stopped off at a roadside monument where the snow was quite deep. Clare was annoyed we didn’t bring our snowboards!
About half a kilometer after crossing the border this was the view – we like!

A tight squeeze on the exit. He took forever, which I thought he was doing to wind me up!
View from Okatse Canyon towards the mountains
There was quite a large cracking sound at this point in the crossing

Carrying out a risk assessment
We nearly took this chap with us!
First visitors of the day

Waking up to a frosty morning
Another building that has seen better days
Another doorway that opens onto the cobbled streets

Faded grandeur
A row of houses on the brink of slipping down the street
Crumbling doorway

View from our guesthouse of ramshackle balconies
Red cashmere scarf paired with gingham jim-jams. Note how the scarf picks out the red accent in the socks.
On-trend lime green Burton snowboard jacket over a Dickies boiler suit. Two brands to look out for.

A striped puffa jacket partnered with some thermal leggings. This works despite the clash of patterns – though it has to be said not everyone could pull this look of.

Fun driving conditions
Camped 100m from the Russian border. It was unbelievably cold!

The photo that started all the fun

Around £75 – this time in 1000 som notes

Khiva

Khiva
Khiva
Khiva

About a hundred quids-worth of the highest denomination notes in Uzbekistan
Nadir Divan Begi Khanaka Bhukara
Kalon Minaret Bhukara

Roof detail, Gaukushan Medressa Bhukara
Kalon Mosque Bhukara
Once again, not sure of the name…. Bhukara

The Ark Bhukara
Kalon Mosque Bhukara
Kalon Mosque and Minaret Bhukara

Roof detail, Mir-i-Arab Medressa Bhukara
Not sure what this place was called! Bhukara
Nadir Divan Begi Khanaka Bhukara

Nadir Divan Begi Khanaka Bhukara
The less touristy side of Samarkant. The sky filled with dust as the afternoon wore on and the light became quite strange. Samarkand
The bazaar Samarkand

Tilla-Kari Medressa Samarkand
A family playing dress-up, Sher Dor Medressa Samarkand
Inside Sher Dor Medressa Samarkand

Roof detail, Ulugbek Medressa Samarkand
Sher Dor Medressa Samarkand
Tilla-Kari Medressa Samarkand

4 old ladies hanging out Samarkand
Sher Dor Medressa Samarkand
Sher Dor Medressa Samarkand

The market, Istaravshan, Tajikstan
The butcher, Istaravshan, Tajikstan
After driving on the main road for a few hours we chose a random turn off to follow and find somewhere for lunch. Unbeknownst to us, the turn-off we chose would lead to a picture perfect valley.

Cheeky children
Saritag River, Tajikistan
Iskanderkul, Tajikistan

Two squares Iskanderkul, Tajikistan
Cooking up some Scotch Pancakes for breakfast!!
After a week spent in Dushanbe we set off north towards the second city, Khujand. Whilst online accounts suggest this route is fraught with danger (unfinished tunnels, high altitude roadworks) it seems the government has made good on the route and battled the odds to create a very nice road

Across the river, we could see Afghan houses built from mud. Hay is piled on top of the flat-roofed house forming a pyramid
At the point the Pamir and Wakan rivers meet the wind picked up, as did the dust.
The road clings to the mountainside

Our first glimpse of Afghanistan. I’m not sure why we found the idea of being able to see Afghanistan so exhilarating, but it was
The Pamir River
Sunset on the Pamir plateau

Astronaut Simmons explores the alien landscape
Hiding from the wind
Spot the Tot!

For the first few petrol purchases in Tajikistan things weren’t as simple as rolling up to the petrol station and filling up. Instead we negotiated the quality of the petrol, the cost and the amount of fuel the car needed using the dust in the windows as our worksheet
A derelict petrol station Murghab, Tajikistan
After 200km of nothing, the first town one reaches on the M41 is Murghab. That this town can even exist is amazing as it’s a very long way away from anywhere. Winter temperatures can dip to -40ºC.

A twist of modern politics – the road on the right is the one we will follow for the next 1800km, but running in parallel for the next 300km is a service road built alongside a fence that forms part of a border agreement between Tajikistan and China. Apparently Tajikistan seceded 1000’s of km2 to China….
Sunrise (ish) Karakul, Tajikistan
I don’t know why, but this just makes me think of 1970’s mountaineers Karakul, Tajikistan

Contravening almost every good practice of drone flying in one wedding
Villages on the Afghanistan side cling to the steep mountain sides
Ploughed fields

The incredible autumn colours of the trees
Every bit of available land is farmed
At times the river widens and mellows

The Hindu Kush loom ahead
This mountain range represents the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. We camped overnight in the foothills then made our way over a pass the next day into Tajikistan. The Tajik border is at 4200m!
More farming activity

A family taking a rest from the hard work
Another shot from Kazarman. The Chinese are building a super luxurious new road, presumably to link China and the town.
The view descending down into the town of Kazarman. This a wealthy gold mining town; in the photo you can just about make out a mine on the right hand side

The road ahead
Horses running through the dust. There wasn’t a human driving them so I think they were just running for kicks.
Another mountain.

The winding road back down to the valley floor
It’s a cliche to say the photo doesn’t do it justice but for this view it was true. We both agreed it was one of most amazing views we’d seen.
Sunset at Song Kol. It was bloody cold that night.

We see lots and lots of these chaps. Shepards are constanly moving their flocks here and there, quite often on the main roads.
We’ve passed many, many graveyards like this through Central Asia. As we’ve travelled further and further south they’ve become more and more rudimentary.
The last light as the sun disappears behind a mountain. From here it gets cold!

A herdsman on horseback. It should be noted that Clare took this!
Mountains, mountains, mountains. If you like mountains, then come to Kyrgyzstan!
The Symphony Hall (I think!) at Kyrgyzstan’s capital, Bishkek

Ominous mountains lurk in the mist
Huddled ’round the fire to keep warm
The bazaar at Karakol where you can buy everything you might ever want. Apart from the thing we needed.

View from the top
The twisting road downwards
Snow and mud

Looking back on the way up
Crudely carved road

Friendly truck driver
The road ahead (look carefully!)
An action shot in Kyrgyzstan

The snow encroaches
The back road to Kochkor

Families hard at work harvesting potatoes
Keeping warm by the fire
First snow!

Landslide at 3500m prevents further progress
Following gurgling rivers
Another mountainous view from another camp spot

Log bridge crossing
View from our bed
Posing under the stars in the middle of nowhere

Cliffs at Altyn-Emel NP
The dream team
The view from our final campsite in Kazakhstan – Goodbye!

A quick photo before all hell broke loose
Our first proper sighting of the Kyrgyzstan mountains. Very exciting.
Scenery ahead of some rain

Kazakh housing
Altyn-Emel national park
Altyn-Emel national park

Nice looking cliffs at Altyn-Emel national park
Our camp spot at Altyn-Emel national park
Locals chilling out by the bread shop Almaty

Road side pandemonium at the fruit sellers
Clare made friends with a nice lady selling fruit and took this excellent photo
These guys were hanging at Lake Kaindy touting horse rides – Clare was highly enoumoured of them

Lake Kaindy – formed as a result of a landslide in 1911
Someone told Clare there was a Pirates of the Caribean party at our hiking destination
After 2 months sat on our arses in the car, we did a big hike from Lake Kolsai up to Lake Kolsai No. 2. We were both knackered.

Lake Kolsai by moonlight
Lake Kolsai – this was the view from the back of our car
Throughout our journey through Kazakhstan farmers were working overtime to harvest their hay.

Threading the Tots through the eye of the needle. Charyn Canyon
Charyn Canyon by night
Lorry stopped for fuel.

Daily maintenance. Here I am checking the air filter in my pyjamas
A strange-looking statue we came across
Overlooking ‘Big Almaty’ lake.

Various observatories to the south of Almaty.
‘Big Almaty’ lake.
Beware the crows.

Typical road-side scene. At every village there’re always old ladies selling fruit by the side of the road. Always looks good, but you can’t buy any quantity less than a bucket.
Mosque under construction/renovation.
Cool looking building in the middle of Kazakhstan. No idea what it’s purpose is.

Another welcoming shop facade. This place is called ‘Askhana’
Driving through road works – the Chinese are currently building lots of roads through Kazakhstan to enable easy access by road to Europe.

View of Lake Kolsay from our bed!
Delicious bisbarmek!
The metropolis of Almaty

The leafy streets of Almaty
Cows on the road
Amazing-looking vegetables for sale

The submerged at Kaindy Lake
Having some ‘quiet time’ at the Kolsay ‘2’ Lake
Charyn Canyon

Camping amongst the squirrels
‘Big Almaty’ Lake
Almaty’s spotless underground system




















































































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