Taking the long way home from Japan to Frome, UK

Category: tajikistan (Page 1 of 2)

Candied Concrete Constructions

I doubt this is the usual overlander/traveller blog topic! Nevertheless, as one travels through the countries that we have on Fromeward Bound there’s no doubting the influence that concrete has in shaping the region.

It should be noted that I’m a big fan of concrete; both as a building material and also aesthetically. I particularly love 1960s brutalism; as a child I would visit my uncle who lived in the Barbican and marvel at this unapologetic beast of a structure. (I’m no snob though, as I’m equally enamoured by car parks!) I love the rawness of the material, the colour palette, the different textures; it’s uncompromisingly scale and it’s innate strength. I’ve mixed concrete only once before when Captain and I laid some foundations for an extension. It’s pretty mind boggling that from four simple ingredients of sand, cement, aggregate and water one can create a material so hard and strong it can withstand a nuclear bomb.

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Tajikistan Video

For most of the time we were in Tajikistan poor old Brian was stuck in his box. To begin with it was too windy; then we were alongside the Afghan border and flying him didn’t seem like the cleverest idea!!

So, instead of a video full of beautiful footage from Tajikistan, you’ve got a video of us going about our daily chores that just happened to be filmed in Tajikistan! Kind of a ‘day in the life’…. that keen-eyed continuity buffs will spot wasn’t actually filmed in a single day!

Watching all the footage again makes us both feel sad that this part of the trip is over.

The Wedding Crashers

I have no idea if this is a traditional thing or a new thing…in fact, I know nothing about it and I won’t pretend that I do.

But, from what I’ve seen in Central Asia, it seems that there is some sort of wedding custom that involves a fleet of cars. Yes, I hear you bemoan, the bride turning up in a car and then alighting from said car is also part of the Western tradition too. But I retort…does it involve someone sitting in the boot of a car (with the boot wide open I hasten to add) holding a huge movie camera while recording the entire drive? Does it involve several cars driving around and around town with hazards flashing; gleeful and frequent beeping; donutting; people lunging out of car windows; drones circulating above recording every move?

Now lets just hope they don’t crash 😉

Contravening almost every good practice of drone flying in one wedding

Contravening almost every good practice of drone flying in a single wedding

 

The Hunted

We drove through a beautiful wide valley filled with fruit trees; farmers ploughing fields and small road-side stalls of apples, onions, melons and squash. The road meandered for a few miles following a dry river bed hemmed in by gentle sloping hills on either side. We eventually came across a track that crossed the river bed and stopped in a small triangular parcel of land where two hills converged.

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Thoughts on Tajikistan

#1 No men riding horses (well the odd one or two but certainly nothing like Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Mongolia)

#2 The Pamir Highway and the Wakhan Valley are beautiful. I recommend Autumn for travelling through them

#3 Lots of pomegranates

#4 School uniforms are terribly smart

#5 Like the rest of Central Asia and Mongolia the people are terribly friendly and hospitable

#6 In Dushanbe there are a lot of men wearing slim trousered blue suits. Very dapper looking

#7 On that note the men in Dushanbe are the sort of boys your mother would have loved you bringing home – good-looking, well groomed and polite young men

#8 Tajikistan has been noticeably more expensive than any of the other countries we’ve visited

#9 As with the rest of Central Asia there are a lot of tall mature trees in the cities and towns

#10 If a shop doesn’t have the exact change that you need they sometimes give you gum or a sweet instead

#11 There are a lot of stunning high mountains throughout the country

#12 There are a lot of 2000-era Vauxhall Astra and Vectra cars

#13 The children always wave and say hello at us as we drive through villages

#14 Again as with the rest of Central Asia driving in cities is utterly manic

#15 In the cities women wear a lot of makeup

#16 Lots of big fat shiny new black LandCruisers in the cities

#17 There are lots of huge banners and posters of the President adorning many buildings

#18 Wherever we go you can guarantee you’ll see at least one broken down lorry

#19 People carry a huge amount on their roof racks

#20 Big metal or wooden daybeds are a popular place to sit, chat and drink tea on. They are often covered in colourful traditional patterned rugs, bolsters and cushions.

The Pamir

The M41, romantically referred to as the Pamir Highway, connects Osh in Kyrgyzstan with Dushanbe in Tajikistan. It’s a road of about 1600km that rises to an elevation of 4655 metres. Much of it is unpaved or rough pot-holed tarmac; not much wider than a single lane and is carved out of the mountain sides. As it runs south from the border with Kyrgyzstan the looming mountains of the Hindu Kush in Afghanistan make a dramatic appearance. The Wakhan Valley road makes a detour off the M41 and curves down to run alongside the Panj River. This river, in the valley below, acts as the border between Afghanistan and Tajikistan and at times the two countries become tantalisingly close.

So you can understand why this particular road has been on the top of Captain’s list for the trip.

The Hindu Kush loom ahead

The Hindu Kush loom ahead

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Tajikistan Route

One of the ‘big ticket’ items on the drive home to Frome was always going to be the ‘Pamir Highway’ – a semi-paved roadway that starts in Kyrgyzstan and climbs up on to the Pamir plateau in Tajikistan before slowly descending to Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. I can now report that we have successfully completed this leg of the journey and all expectations were easily met. Big, big mountains, cliff clinging roads and, for the latter part of the route, lots and lots of waving children. The road has a reputation for being a bit scary but, to be honest, the scariest thing was having to get the car filled up by bucket from a big unmarked tank – poor Tots!

So we are now in Dushanbe, which has turned out to be a very green, clean and friendly capital city. Not quite so friendly was the first restaurant we visited who decided to poison me by means of pizza.

As we’ve now given up on any chance to travel home via Iran, the big job whilst we’re in town is to get a Russian transit visa. Once we have this, we’ll be able to re-enter Russia north of the Caspian Sea and make the dash to Georgia. Our first embassy visit last Thursday failed on a few technicalities so today was attempt number 2. They have now accepted our application and are graciously going to give us 3 days(!) to clear 2 international borders and cover 1000km and all for the very generous price of USD127 each.

Before Russia we still have a couple more coutries to tackle – Uzbekistan in 6 days time, followed by a second visit to Kazakhstan.

Surprise, Surprise

Nine months passed between deciding that Fromeward Bound was going to happen and finally leaving Tokyo. During that time I did a huge amount of researching and planning – reading blogs and forums, pouring over maps, etc. – and created quite a clear idea in my head of how I thought things would play out.

Despite all that ‘deep’ thinking, some things have turned out a bit differently…..

Our very first night on the road

Our very first night on the road

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