Taking the long way home from Japan to Frome, UK

Category: kazakhstan (Page 1 of 3)

Candied Concrete Constructions

I doubt this is the usual overlander/traveller blog topic! Nevertheless, as one travels through the countries that we have on Fromeward Bound there’s no doubting the influence that concrete has in shaping the region.

It should be noted that I’m a big fan of concrete; both as a building material and also aesthetically. I particularly love 1960s brutalism; as a child I would visit my uncle who lived in the Barbican and marvel at this unapologetic beast of a structure. (I’m no snob though, as I’m equally enamoured by car parks!) I love the rawness of the material, the colour palette, the different textures; it’s uncompromisingly scale and it’s innate strength. I’ve mixed concrete only once before when Captain and I laid some foundations for an extension. It’s pretty mind boggling that from four simple ingredients of sand, cement, aggregate and water one can create a material so hard and strong it can withstand a nuclear bomb.

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A Story with a Happy Ending

(This should be read before The Happy Ending Story)

I’m starting off with two bits of good news: firstly, we found a bottle of port and some blue cheese in a supermarket in Atyrau! Secondly, as avid readers of the blog, you will no doubt already know that Brian was reunited with us – so I won’t bore you with the details of that. So with Brian back on board, the port safely stored away and the cheese stinking the car out we headed to the border with Russia. We only had a four day transit visa with which to travel through Russia and we had lost a day of that waiting for DHL to cough Brian up; so it was a case of ‘foot to the floor.’

Fun driving conditions

Fun driving conditions

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Kazakhstan Route (second visit)

It wasn’t meant to turn out this way, but we’ve now been stationary for 5 days. The long and short of it is that DHL have let us down in a big way and failed to deliver Brian on time. He was meant to be ready for us to collect on Monday, then they said Tuesday, now they’ve promised tomorrow. Given that our Russian visa says we have to cross the border tomorrow, I’m not sure what we’ll do if they let us down again….

On a more positive note we’ve been staying in a lovely (but expensive) apartment with proper, fast internet and free laundry. So, we’ve been loading up on TV shows to keep us amused during the long cold nights in the car. We’ve also been eating lots of pizza.

The statisticians amongst you will be excited to hear that whilst we haven’t beaten our maximum elevation record, we have smashed our minimum elevation record on this leg achieving -49m!!

The Wedding Crashers

I have no idea if this is a traditional thing or a new thing…in fact, I know nothing about it and I won’t pretend that I do.

But, from what I’ve seen in Central Asia, it seems that there is some sort of wedding custom that involves a fleet of cars. Yes, I hear you bemoan, the bride turning up in a car and then alighting from said car is also part of the Western tradition too. But I retort…does it involve someone sitting in the boot of a car (with the boot wide open I hasten to add) holding a huge movie camera while recording the entire drive? Does it involve several cars driving around and around town with hazards flashing; gleeful and frequent beeping; donutting; people lunging out of car windows; drones circulating above recording every move?

Now lets just hope they don’t crash 😉

Contravening almost every good practice of drone flying in one wedding

Contravening almost every good practice of drone flying in a single wedding

 

Surprise, Surprise

Nine months passed between deciding that Fromeward Bound was going to happen and finally leaving Tokyo. During that time I did a huge amount of researching and planning – reading blogs and forums, pouring over maps, etc. – and created quite a clear idea in my head of how I thought things would play out.

Despite all that ‘deep’ thinking, some things have turned out a bit differently…..

Our very first night on the road

Our very first night on the road

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Kazakhstan: Video

Better late than never, here’s the edit of the footage we shot in Kazakhstan.

Apologies to the folk who are interested in seeing more of us as my videos seem to be going the other way and turning more and more into nature documentaries 😉

Enjoy!

Observations on Kazakhstan

#1 Almaty is the city of apples

#2 Same as in Eastern Russia and Mongolia; most of the older generation have full-on gold teeth

#3 The traditional countryside houses look very similar to their Russian and Mongolian counterparts but are painted white with blue window surrounds

#4 Nobody has beards or moustaches

#5 Many of the young in Almaty speak pretty good English

#6 There is steppe in the countryside of the north while the south-east is much greener and mountainous

#7 In Almaty cars beep their horns at the slightest thing – very annoying

#8 The petrol is very cheap – 31 pence a litre, cheaper still for the lower grade fuels (92 and 80)!

#9 Kazak people are very friendly indeed. Everyone wants to chat with us. Even while driving in central Almaty people will stick their heads out of the car window and ask us where we are from

#10 You will never have seen so many watermelons and butternut squashes

#11 Some of the police take bribes and they wear very wide-brimmed caps

#12 There is a real ethnic mix in Kazakhstan

#13 There are many roads in very bad condition though many new roads are being built, especially by the Chinese who want to create a network of roads heading to the West

#14 As in Russia; it’s compulsory to drive with your lights on at all times

#15 Horses abound in Kazakhstan, and in the far south-east corner, many people use donkeys and wooden carts to travel around.

#16 The wealthy in the cities drive massive sparkling new black 4WD LandCruisers

Goodnight and Sweet Dreams

“The Night is Dark and Full of Terrors” – Melissandra – Game of Thrones

A heinous man, not four feet tall, approaches the car. His long pointed noise, crooked and bent, sniffs the cool night air like a hungry wolf. Greasy long blond hair lies in knotted strands down his hunched back. Black beady eyes peer through the open window and settle menacingly on my sleeping pale flesh. Suddenly he thrusts his hand through the open car window and grabs me: I wake with a start. I scream but no sound emerges from my mouth. I shout for Captain but no sound emerges from my mouth. Even my fast heaving breath makes not a ripple in the still night air. There is nothing but silence…..

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