Border Patrol (Night Two)

Setting

Due to the road literally being honed from the mountain side with the river raging below; small picturesque villages have settled where the valley, on occasions, widens and flattens. As occasionally happens, dusk started to fall before we had found somewhere good to camp. And so it was we found ourselves having to stop, before darkness completely fell, just off from the road in a large lay-by. It was far from ideal but at least we managed to tuck ourselves next to a small half built building.

Action

We had just finished watching the final episode of The Bridge when we decided to get out and brush our teeth before bed. I was just behind Totty when, in the near pitch darkness, I saw three figures approaching through the darkness and heavy mist. I couldn’t make out any detail at all even though they were no more than five metres from me.

I called out, not least as a declaration of friendliness but also to alert Captain who was still inside the car. I grabbed the small camp light and, after attaching it to the outside of the car and illuminating the immediate area, saw they were three soldiers. Three soldiers with AK47s swinging by their side.

As per yesterday there was no common language but, with a mixture of sign language and “machina” (Russian for car) we established that we were driving to Dushanbe but were stopping here to sleep in the car. Again, as per last night, calls were made on the walkie talkie to a commander but, unlike yesterday, we also had to show our passports. After the call it was apparent that the soldiers were very concerned for our safety as they kept pointing across the river and pretending to be Afghan snipers shooting at us.

And so they took residence in the small building and let us know that they would stay there to look after us. So at 11pm I put the kettle on and made tea while the two young soldiers stood guard by the open windows and the older soldier played on his mobile phone. In the dim light of the phone we tried to converse but, having failed, we eventually clambered into the car leaving our protectors with hot cups of sweet tea and sticky dried dates.

I heard them talking into the small hours but when we arose the next morning they had gone. Left behind were three sugar encrusted empty cups and date stones scattered on the dusty concrete floor.