The Pamir

The M41, romantically referred to as the Pamir Highway, connects Osh in Kyrgyzstan with Dushanbe in Tajikistan. It’s a road of about 1600km that rises to an elevation of 4655 metres. Much of it is unpaved or rough pot-holed tarmac; not much wider than a single lane and is carved out of the mountain sides. As it runs south from the border with Kyrgyzstan the looming mountains of the Hindu Kush in Afghanistan make a dramatic appearance. The Wakhan Valley road makes a detour off the M41 and curves down to run alongside the Panj River. This river, in the valley below, acts as the border between Afghanistan and Tajikistan and at times the two countries become tantalisingly close.

So you can understand why this particular road has been on the top of Captain’s list for the trip.

The road skirts around the mountain range; at times dipping down to the level of the river but mostly cutting into the mountain higher up creating a series of dramatic drops. As the valley thins the raging river cascades down through tight cannons twisting and turning to the rhythm of the landscape. Where the Valley widens the river flattens and softens and you feel as if you might just be able to wade across.

On these flatter parts villages have settled along the road utilising the flat, even ground. Though many houses still precariously cling on; as tight hairpin bends weave up the mountain side. In every village, every inch of fertile ground is terraced between low stone walls and is cultivated and farmed yielding an abundance of crops. Each parcel of land, irrespective of size, seems manicured and honed to create a picture postcard of agricultural perfection.

The earthen white-washed houses sit low and are usually penned in by exquisitely built dry stone walls or from fences of pruned branches and twigs. Large trees line the main road looming majestically over all; the beautiful colours radiating out as the leaves turn from green to orange and then to the brightest golden yellow imaginable.

It really was one of the most beautiful places I have visited.