Taking the long way home from Japan to Frome, UK

Month: October 2016 (Page 3 of 3)

Kyrgyzstan Route

Sadly, our time in Kyrgyzstan is just about to end….. We’re currently in the second city, Osh, and gearing up to set off for the Tajikistan border tomorrow, aiming to cross on Tuesday.

On the trip so far, not only has Kyrgyzstan been the most difficult country to spell, it’s also been the most beautiful. The mountains here are just amazing and the network of tracks that have enabled us to go way up into the hills equally so. Once again the car has performed beyond our expectations and will be treated to a car wash in the morning before we set off.

One for the Road

We drove over a mountain today! Where the Japanese would have built a tunnel the Kyrgyzs built a road. The said tunnel would have been expensive, over engineered, straight and pretty damn boring. This road, on the other hand, was cheap to build, extremely basic, curvy and absolutely totally exciting.

The road ahead (look carefully!)

The road ahead (look carefully!)

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A Tale from a Drama Queen High on a Mountain Pass

On the way from Bishkek to Osh tourists sometimes take a detour to Lake Song Kol; a beautiful lake edged by mountains. There are various roads to this lake but we decided we would take a little used high road and travel over a mountain pass. It would be about 160km from the turn off on the main road to the village near the lake where we could refuel. Captain had found this route on WikiLok, which is an online resource for people who have made a journey (by foot, bike, car….) to share the details of the route with others.

The back road to Kochkor

The back road to Kochkor

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The Mountain Goats

We are in the eastern corner of Kyrgyzstan where the country narrows and the mountain ranges  create a natural border with Kazakhstan and China. From entering the border (which took no more than 15 minutes,) we drove straight to Karakol: a large town that sits on the eastern edge of Lake Issik Kol. The town acts as a good base for people wanting to explore the mountains; indeed, the hotels, hostels and restaurants were filled with European hikers.

We spent the next four days driving along a few of the mountain valleys and camping out. We had had plans to join the hikers and get some exercise but wussed out: not least because the nights are getting rather chilly and Totty is just too comfortable (and valuable) to leave behind! The first valley, Jeti Oguz, started off as a gravel dirt road that weaved several times across the river on crude log bridges. It then opened up into a large beautiful green valley scattered with holiday yurts. We continued on as the road got muddier and rockier until we could go no further: which fortuitously coincided with an amazing view of the mountains.

View from our bed

View from our bed

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Observations on Kazakhstan

#1 Almaty is the city of apples

#2 Same as in Eastern Russia and Mongolia; most of the older generation have full-on gold teeth

#3 The traditional countryside houses look very similar to their Russian and Mongolian counterparts but are painted white with blue window surrounds

#4 Nobody has beards or moustaches

#5 Many of the young in Almaty speak pretty good English

#6 There is steppe in the countryside of the north while the south-east is much greener and mountainous

#7 In Almaty cars beep their horns at the slightest thing – very annoying

#8 The petrol is very cheap – 31 pence a litre, cheaper still for the lower grade fuels (92 and 80)!

#9 Kazak people are very friendly indeed. Everyone wants to chat with us. Even while driving in central Almaty people will stick their heads out of the car window and ask us where we are from

#10 You will never have seen so many watermelons and butternut squashes

#11 Some of the police take bribes and they wear very wide-brimmed caps

#12 There is a real ethnic mix in Kazakhstan

#13 There are many roads in very bad condition though many new roads are being built, especially by the Chinese who want to create a network of roads heading to the West

#14 As in Russia; it’s compulsory to drive with your lights on at all times

#15 Horses abound in Kazakhstan, and in the far south-east corner, many people use donkeys and wooden carts to travel around.

#16 The wealthy in the cities drive massive sparkling new black 4WD LandCruisers

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